Church of Agios Athanasios
Thessaloniki
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Located at the bustling center of Thessaloniki on Egnatia Street, the Church of Agios Athanasios is a remarkable site steeped in history and spirituality. Despite being surrounded by modern residential developments and lying below the current street level, it stands as a poignant reminder of Thessaloniki’s storied past. A short distance away lies the Church of Panagia Acheiropoietos, another significant Byzantine monument.

Architectural features of the church

The Church of Agios Athanasios is a three-aisled, wooden-roof basilica with interior dimensions of 18.55 by 15.35 meters. Its design is marked by two rows of six pillars that divide the interior into three unequal aisles, with the middle aisle being the widest and tallest. Tradition holds that plans to raise the church’s height during its reconstruction in 1818 were abandoned after a tragic incident in which a worker was shot and killed by someone from the nearby mosque of St. Paraskevi (Acheropiitos Temple).

The eastern side of the church features a semi-circular apse for the sanctuary, flanked by areas for the offertory and the diaconicon, which are inscribed within the eastern wall’s width. The western side includes an open arcade supported by six pillars, now enclosed with glass to serve as a narthex and the main entrance. On the north side lies a long, narrow space known as the "makrinariki," which houses the icon of the New Martyr St. Kiranna from Ossa. Adjacent to this space, the eastern section serves as the chapel of St. Nektarios, while the western section includes a stairwell leading to the women’s gallery.

The church’s woodcarvings, including the polygonal pulpit, episcopal throne, and iconostasis, reflect the community’s prosperity and artistic excellence. The current icon-screen is a modern imitation of the original, incorporating older icons from the 16th to 19th centuries. Notable icons include those of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Athanasios, as well as a depiction of St. Eleftherios with scenes of his martyrdom. The bell tower remains incomplete, despite past approvals for its construction.

Historical significance

The origins of the Church of Agios Athanasios date back to at least 1400 AD, as referenced in historical records. In 1589, Theofanios Malakis, the Bishop of Veria, purchased the church from the Vatopedi Monastery and dedicated it as a dependency of the Monastery of Vlatadon. Over the centuries, its location in Thessaloniki’s commercial and spiritual center made it a focal point of influence and a target of contention. Disputes between the Monastery of Vlatadon and local bishops over control of the church persisted for over three centuries due to its prominence and the wealth of the surrounding area.

In 1817, a fire damaged the church, but the local parishioners funded its reconstruction, which was completed on November 15, 1818. During the turbulent events of 1821, the church was used as a prison for women and children. Two inscriptions commemorate its reconstruction: one above the south entrance lintel and another on a built-in plaque on the west arcade. Historical documents from 1818 and 1819, preserved in the Public Record Office of Macedonia, corroborate these dates.

After Thessaloniki’s liberation in 1912, the church ceased to function as a parish and eventually became a chapel of the Acheiropoietos Church. It fell into neglect, served as a refuge for displaced people, and suffered damage over time. Restoration efforts in 1967–68 preserved the church as an important monument.

The life of St. Athanasios

St. Athanasios the Great (c. 297–373), Archbishop of Alexandria, was a towering figure in the early Christian Church. Renowned for his theological contributions and unwavering defense of Orthodox doctrine, he is celebrated on January 18 and May 2.

From a young age, Athanasios exhibited a remarkable spiritual maturity. According to tradition, Patriarch Alexander of Alexandria observed the boy baptizing his peers in a game that perfectly mirrored the church’s sacramental rites. Impressed, Alexander took Athanasios under his wing, eventually ordaining him as a deacon. Athanasios accompanied the patriarch to the First Ecumenical Council in Nicaea in 325, where he played a pivotal role in opposing Arianism, a heresy denying the divinity of Christ.

In 328, Athanasios succeeded Patriarch Alexander as Archbishop of Alexandria at the age of 28. His steadfast defense of Nicene Christianity made him a target of Arian factions, leading to multiple exiles and false accusations. Among the most infamous charges was the alleged murder of a bishop named Arsenius and the use of his severed hand for sorcery. Athanasios disproved these claims by presenting Arsenius alive and well, along with his intact hands.

Throughout his tumultuous career, Athanasios faced repeated exiles—spending 20 of his 45 years as bishop away from his diocese. He found refuge in Rome, the Egyptian desert, and various other locations, continuing to guide the Church through his writings and correspondence.

Athanasius returned to Alexandria for the final time in 366 and spent his remaining years in relative peace, passing away on May 2, 373. He is typically depicted as an elderly man with silver hair, a broad beard, and the vestments of a hierarch, holding a Gospel book or scroll. His legacy as a Church Father and defender of the faith endures to this day.